Laos Continued

Laos is one of the most beautiful countries we were able to visit and Vang Vieng was probably the most stunning place we stayed. The surrounding landscape looks like someone took the islands from Halong Bay, giant limestone configurations that rise from the earth almost perpendicularly, and transplanted them. In Laos, these very same formations rise out of vast green rice paddies. Spectacular. Just as in Vietnam, these rocks are riddled with holes, some of which are deep enough to be called caves even. We (the Germans, Micha and Mieke and ourselves) had heard all about the different caves to be seen. Some very tall tales none of which we were entirely sure of. So, on our last full day in town, we decided to head for the one rumored to be the biggest, best cave of all, 5 km down a muddy road from Maylyn (where we were staying) and away from town. We had been told there was not only a cave there but a lagoon to swim in. We were excited.

Being four strapping you and healthy adventure-happy travelers, we decided that we should walk it – we’re also frugal currently. It was hot that day my friends. H-O-T hot. Mirage appearance hot. The kind of hot that threatens to dry your eyeballs right out of their sockets. After the first km, my skin was like those perforated hoses that are used for watering. I mean I was sweating like a sweet tooth at a dentist’s office. It took the better part of a couple of hours to get there and when we did… well… there was no lagoon to be found, only a narrow river, more a creek really. There was a small rope swing and shaded bamboo platforms to rest on, but no lagoon.

We had been warned that the trail up to the mouth of the cave would be treacherous and that the flip-flops Hilary and I were wearing probably wouldn’t be sufficient. We dismissed these warnings at the time but found ourselves scrabbling up a near vertical path, more rock climbing than hiking. We did make it. The mouth of the cave was relatively small but once inside, the ceiling rose too maybe 50ft and the room spread out to the size of a respectable cafeteria or ballroom. Just inside, the trail led down to the center of the chamber and on to others. This we learned after. Citing our weakly shod feet and lack of a flashlight, we declined to follow Micha and Mieke into the cave. Instead we navigated our way back down and took a dip.

When Micha and Mieke got back, we decided collectively that the only way to survive our return to Maylyn was to arrange a ride somehow. There had been a tractor and trailer bed thing parked near where we’d paid to see the cave and we figured to hire it, maybe. In actuality, it looked more like a rotor tiller with extended handlebars, but it did a pretty good clip and for a modest price (50,000 kip = $5). We got home safely and without further renal damage. The next day we left for Luang Prabang.

The ride wasn’t so bad despite the incredible amount of curves in the road. I managed to keep my lunch which is always an accomplishment. Once in town, we found a nice guest house right on the water – The Nam Khan, a tributary of the Mekong River. As luck would have it, we were just in time for the start of a three-day longboat racing festival. The festival is called Bun Awk Phansa which means End of the Rains Retreat according to my Lonely Planet – don’t quote me. Hilary and I took a couple in. The races were held on the Mekong. On the first day, each boat held maybe 25 people, but by the last day that number swelled to over 50. It was all very exciting and all the restaurants, permanent and otherwise, were packed with beer swilling Laotians cheering their teams on and singing karaoke. Meanwhile, all the streets near the river were packed with booths selling plastic toys, especially guns, the rebel fighter’s favorite the Kalashnikov to be exact, fake wooden handle and all. There were other cheap trinkets, some clothing and pirate DVDs and CDs too.

Also in town was Laos’ most popular pop rock group (not the monks pictured here)whose name eludes me presently. We learned this from a couple we’d met tubing in Vang Vieng and run into again in Luang Prabang. I don’t recall their names either and Hilary’s not here to ask. I do remember that they were from Portland, were on their honeymoon and we had a lot in common. We forgot to ask for their e-mail addresses before we left. Anyway, the concert was free and out doors, so we headed over en masse. As it turned out, it was sponsored by Carlsberg Brewing which owns Beer Laos, so there was cheap beer to be had along with county fair-like activities – balloon popping with darts for prizes and the such, and a couple of those giant inflatable castles complete with slides inside them. We tried to gain access but were denied. I guys we didn’t fit the height requirements. Isn’t that funny. At one point you’re too small to go on the rides and then later you become too big. We didn’t try the carousel. The concert was okay if you’re into stuff that sounds like Fall Out Boy. Personally I don’t but it was still interesting, at least until it started raining and everyone started rushing for the road.

The next morning Hilary got up very early, before 6am, and went out to greet the monks as they made their daily rounds. Throughout this region, Buddhist monks go out early in the morning to collect donations. The typical gifts change from country to country but rarely consist of money. Here it was rice and these rice-banana-coconut milk fritters steamed in banana leaves. They were delicious. After she returned and dragged me out of bed we left for one of the several different sets of waterfalls. We headed for the largest one. Again, the name is missing from the book and my brain, but it was incredible. Near the entrance is a bear rescue shelter where they have several Asian Black Bears. I didn’t take a picture so imagine a black bear wearing a gigantic fur around its neck, like a balding man’s afro.
(Here’s a link: http://www.wildlife1.org/cms/images/stories/endangered/bears/p-16.jpg)
They also had a tiger. The waterfall its self was a ways up an increasingly washed out trail. It had been raining recently and so the river was gorged. Finally we reached the base of the falls. Micha, Mieke and I opted to take the trail to the top, getting extremely soaked on the way. When we reached it, we found we had 2 choices on our return: either go back the way we came or walk along the very rim of the falls hoping that the wooden rail holds. I’ve never been one for returning the way I came and I suspect Micha and Mieke don’t like it either, so we did it. It wasn’t as dangerous as it sounds because the footing was pretty good and underneath the water was a pretty decent sized ridge to brace your feet against. The way back down on the other side was much less dangerous. The waterfall was spectacular. I think it was the largest we’ve seen. We opted for going back to town instead of on to the next waterfall with Micha and Mieke. I’d had just about enough of riding around in tuktuks and had been slightly carsick on the ride.

There’s not much special to mention about the rest of our time there. We did not visit any of the temples or wats because, well, we’ve seen enough to last us a while. Not to sound ungrateful. We flew out early in the morning and were back in Bangkok before we knew it. It would only be a brief stay, but important.

These are clouds.